Damson Gin Dress

When I posted my brown NL6000 dress I asked for help with an ‘n’ shaped ripple of fabric under my bust.

Brown 6000 Fitting IssueI had a few suggestions and speculations but no one seemed confident. Returning to the dress in the New Year I wanted to be able to see the fitting problem in a new light. I took a long hard look in a full length mirror, I pinched, I prodded, I fidgeted… I even tried on un-padded and really, really padded bras (self-SBA and self-FBA without surgery if you will). And then…

Brown 6000 Fitting Issue b

If I imagined the lines of the bust darts and the waist darts extended… *gasp* they didn’t cross at the apex of my bust! The waist darts needed to be moved towards the centre by 1 inch.

Dart position

With no fabric purchases allowed I shopped my stash. At first I went for some mystery black suiting that I had no plans for but when I had the pattern pieces laid out, it dawned on me that it’d be hard to see or photograph fitting issues and the whole point of this make was to get rid of that ‘n’ shaped issue! A quick re-think and I sacrificed this purple suiting that was meant to become a pencil skirt.

Damson Gin Dress 6000
This make made me realise that although we have the same measurement, my bust is different to my dressmakers dummy. The darts look ridiculously close on her. So, has moving the darts solved the mysterious fitting issue on me?

Damson Gin Dress FrontLooks okay from this angle… and more ease in the hips helps smooth things out in that region too.

Damson Gin Dress SideStill no bust ripple from this angle either.

Thank you sewing gods for reminding me of dart positioning.

Thank you sewing gods for reminding me of dart positioning.

Yeah, I think the ripple has been banished. I’m also happier with a bit more ease round the hips.

IMG_0269

So why is it called the Damson Gin dress? Ah well the damson purple is on the outside and the gin part is on the inside…

Damson Gin Dress Hem

Over 3 meters of this gorgeous silvery white lining was languishing in my stash. It reminds me of the silvery blue sheen that gin has. I was feeling quite chuffed with my stash shopping and even used the bias binding I’d made from the leftover scraps of my blouse to bind the raw edge before hemming. Bother, that blouse would have gone great with a purple pencil skirt! Nevermind, I’m still on track with my Stash Diet.

Damson Gin Dress CuffI’m considering switching the buttons for fabric covered. Undecided yet.

Want to see more details? I took loads of photos, I think the number of photos in my posts correlates to how pleased I am with my make!

Damson Gin Dress

I fully lined the dress including the sleeves. It’s pretty easy due to the sleeve cuffs but does require some extra understitching to stop the lining rolling to the outside. I found myself swapping the different coloured threads on my sewing machine constantly. Perhaps I’ll stick with matching lining to make things easier in future!

Damson Gin Dress Zip

Another cool lining detail was attaching it by machine to the zip… I thought it’d be difficult but it’s actually pretty easy (following Tasia’s instructions).

Damson Gin Dress Vent

I shoe horned in my favourite skilllining a vent.

It's not easy demonstrating a lined vent while wearing the dress!

It’s not easy demonstrating a lined vent while wearing the dress!

Like this? I’m going to be telling you all about how you can get involved with lined vents tomorrow!

Damson Gin Dress Lined Vent

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24 responses to “Damson Gin Dress

  1. This dress is just gorgeous! And congratulations on working out the fitting issue, I am very impressed with your scientific approach (as opposed to my more empiric approach of “let take a bit of here and see what’ll happen – and let’s cut it off rather than just pin it, what can possibly go wrong”).
    I’m eagerly waiting for your lining-a-vent-advice, by the way!

    • Oh good, I’m glad someone is interested – I am a little worried there’d be no takers. There’s more than just advice so I’m hoping you’ll join in too! I’m being all cryptic to increase the hype!

  2. Lovely dress,mi think you made a wise selection from your stash! But thank you for unravelling the fit learning, I always find it fascinating 🙂

  3. What an elegant dress, it looks great. I love the binding around the hem. x

  4. Now such a beautiful fit. It looks like such a lovely piece to wear. So impressed!

  5. What a gorgeous dress! Congratulations on figuring out the problem and not throwing a fit and leaving it to languish unworn in a wardrobe…. (just m?!) 🙂

    http://www.mancunianvintage.com

    • Technically the first brown dress did languish in the wardrobe for a few weeks. But I’m glad I’ve been able to replace it with a much better fitting purple one… the colour is more me too!

  6. Well done in sorting out your fit issues! Your dress looks so well made! I’ve still never lined a full dress, I’d love to try it sometime.

  7. Quite amazing what kind of effect a relatively small change can have.

  8. Okay, this is no “sacrifice” for this fabric at all, it is pure genius. I love your new version of this dress and yay for no pooling of fabric. It looks fantastic Emma Jayne! If you are still hankering for that purple pencil skirt a few months from now, you can go get some fabric with some of your diet credits. In the meantime, this dress is a stunner!

  9. This is so beautiful, Emma Jayne! And a great reminder to make sure those darts are in the place where they should be! I’m really looking forward to your lined vent post!

    • Thank you, you are too kind. Yes, I was looking for a complicated fitting fix and it turned out to be pretty easy. I hope you are not disappointed in tomorrow’s post!

  10. Pingback: Lined Vent Sew Along: Joining in? | Clipped Curves

  11. Excellent! The dress looks fabulous. I love the fabric, lining and binding, so pretty all together. I am thinking to make my own dress form with the paper tape technique because I think I will have this issue no matter what size dress form I would purchase, it would just be so different from my own body.

  12. nice job in solving the mystery, and congratulations on a lovely dress!

  13. Is your fabric a woven? I made this dress earlier this year in a double knit and wanted to make another. Curious to see if you line you vent like I figured out.

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