Before we get sewing, ensure that you have transferred all the pattern markings (see previous post for a refresher). If you are adding an invisible zip in the centre back seam, insert this first.
1. With right sides together sew down the centre back seam to the dot, back stitching at the dot. (For skirt and dress patterns you’ll start at the notch indicating the zip end, or at the end of your invisible zip and finish at the vent dot).
2. Next sew along the diagonal vent extension between the two dots, back stitching at both ends to secure.
5. Press centre back seam allowances open and the vent extension to the left (looking at the wrong side).
6. Sewing through all layers of the fabric, follow the diagonal seam back stitching at each end.
It should look like this on the right side.
7. Finish the seam allowances on the centre back seam. You can also finish the vent seam allowances at this stage so long as the seam allowance is not trimmed (we want to keep the full 5/8” seam allowance) using a zig zag stitch or overlock with the blade disengaged.
For a skirt or dress, follow the instructions for your pattern to attach the zip, sew side seams, attach sleeves and finish seam allowances. In the next post, I’ll describe how to draft the lining pattern pieces. Until then feel free to ask any questions.