Lined vent sew-along: Order of construction

Now that we’ve sewn our back lining pieces, I wanted to ask if you’ve ever got in a pickle over the order of construction and then spent hours unpicking? Or did you know you needed to think about the order of construction carefully but gave yourself a headache trying to work out if you’d ever be able to turn your garment right side out again? Well you are in friendly company here and I’d like to give you some tips to make sure that doesn’t happen on this sew along… “not on my watch!”

It’s easier to attach the vent lining to the shell when no other parts of these two fabrics are already attached. That means for skirts with a separate waistband, sew the shell and the lining at the vent first and then attach the waistband sandwiching the shell and lining in the waistband. This is the method I’m using for the sew-along using the blogger’s favourite Simplicity 2451.

Here are my shell and lining ready to be attached at the vent:

Simplicity 2451 Lined Vent a

Then after I had sewn up the vent, I folded the waistband facing over trapping the lining. I pinned from the right side of the shell, checking that my shell and lining skirt pieces are aligned and my waistband facing will be caught when I stitch stitch in the ditch from the right side.

Simplicity 2451 Lined Vent b

If your lining will be attached like a facing at the waist (for a skirt) or at the neckline (for a dress), then we need to consider the order of construction a bit more carefully. I think it is almost impossible to use the lining as a facing at the neckline after the vent is sewn up (do correct me if I’m wrong). All I know is that for my Damson Gin dress, I didn’t have to do any unpicking so I’m going to share that order of construction with you:

First I attached the lining to the zip using Tasia’s neat trick. Then I attached the lining and shell around the neckline with some understitching to keep the lining towards the inside.

Damson Gin Dress Zip

After turning my dress the right way out, I was able to access the parts of the vent flaps that I needed to sew from the open hem.

Damson Gin Dress Lined Vent

Try from the left and from the right of the vent to find out which will be easiest. Ease the part you need to sew carefully away from the rest of the garment. When pinning, smooth out the part you are pinning so that any pulling from the remainder of the garment is avoided.

Hey, we can’t always sew flat, sometimes we have to do a little bit of garment contortion in the name of fancy techniques like lined vents! Leave a comment if you have a question about the order of construction for your particular garment and I’ll try to help you work it out before we attach the lining and shell at the vent – finally the exciting bit!

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