Thurlows with Wings

Sewaholic Thurlow Side 2

Just so you know, I’m not over my Lonsdale Love affair  (dress, skirt, jumpsuit), not yet anyway. I’m playing the Sewaholic field, flirting with Thurlows.

Sewaholic Thurlow Fron

The toile/muslin to adjust the crotch depth and curve to my usual specifications went smoothly. However, I made a toile in shorts length so I couldn’t have forseen the crazy fabric ripples that are the back view…

Sewaholic Thurlow Back

I can’t find this exact problem in Sewing pants that Fit (my only trouser sewing resource) so if you know how to fix this fitting issue do enlighten me! While we’re at the back, can we briefly discuss the back extension? It’s a nice idea but just redundant for me. I doubt I’ll gain weight in my sway back to need to adjust it in the future, a huge seam allowance is just going to show through the trousers like a glaring VPL not to mention interference with the pockets and the multiple steps of attaching the waistband is a right faff. I edited the feature out and now I feel guilty because Tasia put a lot of thought into that area being difficult to fit and I’m just so ungrateful for it. I’m sorry.

Sewaholic Thurlow Welt Pocket

I’d never made welt pockets before but after practicing two on the toile using both the pattern instructions and Lauren’s sewalong posts, I was ready to chop into my fashion fabric. I’d also never made a zip fly before but I didn’t consciously realise this was my first time till it was all sewn up.

Reversible fabric

In fabric terms I had just my stash to work with but handily the grey suiting I made my Simplicity 4044‘s from had a good looking wrong side. The right side is a blue and light grey pinstripe on a dark grey background while the wrong side is a mid-grey speckled herringbone… yay for wrong sides and extra meterage! I’ve also been showing my friends the wrong side at the hem to prove it’s the same fabric!

Sewaholic Thurlow Front Fly

And remember the penguin quilting cotton I made a glasses case out of for a Christmas present? I had just enough of that left over for pockets and fly-facing. So these Thurlows have wings!

Sewaholic Thurlow Penguins 1 Sewaholic Thurlow Penguin Pockets

9 responses to “Thurlows with Wings

  1. Those are great looking trousers. Your welt pockets are so even!

    I get those wrinkles too and have been told that it comes from the inside leg seam being too long on the back pattern piece. Ideally it’s drafted shorter than the front piece and you stretch the back with the iron to match, and then it hugs the back of your leg more. It certainly helped my trouser making efforts when I used patterns which did that. I don’t have the Thurlow pattern so for all I know it does this already though.

  2. I always get wrinkly bottom problems and despite mass research in books and the internet I’ve struggled to find a fix, so I’m going to have a go at the stretching the back seam thing like Catherine suggests to see if it fixes the issue.

  3. I;m well impressed with this welt pocket, can’t believe this is your first attempt!
    I heard the thing about the back inside seam needing to be shorter as well and Burda patterns certainly have this feature – though I have no clue whether it this problem might be causing those wrinkles.

  4. Lovely pockets and fly facings! They are great. 🙂

  5. I’m so envious of people who can make trousers, still feels a long way off for me! Was intrigued by the ‘with wings’ reference, a great pairing!

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